Mount Thulagi Expedition

About Trip -

Mount Thulungi (6400m) Expedition journey with Pink Mountain Treks and Expedition starts from Kathmandu to Besisahar continuing to Shynge, Jagat,Tal. The base camp of Mt Thulungi Expedition can be established at Thulagi at 3,800 meters after five days on the true right bank of the Changlhi glacier. Phungi (6,540m) can be seen down below. It is difficult to move along the route of Dudha Khola. It takes 9 to 11 hours through dense forest and complex moraine to reach base camp after crossing this river close to the Khasontu Khola. We cannot find water resources at this site so everyone should carry the water from the glacier themselves.
We can follow the same route which Japanese has used long ago to climb Mt Thulungi. There is a prominent snowy ice spur toward the right side of the northwest face, which we can climb towards the right flank. A large hanging serac can be seen on either side of the spur, which has made the route quiet dangerous and difficult.  
An advanced base can be fixed at 4,000m at the beginning of the serac. Climbing above route has been crossed through broken glacier, where there is a little snow and the slope is not steep. The angle is creased to 40-50°’s above 5000m elevation with much more snow. The angle gradually increases on the upper slopes.  The Japanese high point can be passed and 4/5 days after leaving advanced base, you reach at the ridge’s top of the face (ca 6,400m). From here you can descend down easily from here and can reach the plateau at 6,250m. This high-altitude plateau is the upper Thulagi glacier forming a sort of shoulder to the south west of Mount Manaslu. It is bordered by the summits of Thulagi 7059m. We can see 29 peaks from there (mount Ngadi Chuli, 7,871m). The beautiful mount Manaslu itself can be seen from there. The route to to Thulangi from South face is difficult.